Saturday, February 28, 2009

It's A Mystery




We just saw our third production, Agatha Christie's The Mousetrap. We are in Stuttgart, after another challenging travel day. We left Salzburg this morning at 10 am for what is supposed to be a 3-hour ride. It took us 6! First there was an accident, then lots and lots of traffic. Evidently, it is a holiday here and the kids are off from school so everyone goes skiing! It is at least, weatherwise, another beautiful day. I have some photos of the Alps from the car -- just spectacular. There are also some snaps from Salzburg, and a picture of the Mousetrap cast.
The theatre at Stuttgart is one of the most modern and best equipped of any we will visit. They have a great facility, so technically they can do a lot more. If the don't know the show, it's the story of a couple who open a guest house in England in the 40's that attracts an odd array of characters, one of whom may be a homocidal maniac. There's a murder, a detective and lots of misdirection before the murder is solved. The play is still on in the West End after almost 50 years. It's not that it's so brilliant, it's just got a reputation built on having a reputation, at this point.
The folks here have been very sweet to us. Eva met us when we arrived and we were taken to a Greek place for dinner that had to have some of the best lamb I've ever had. There's a new Entertainment Director here, who directed the play. I knew him from his previous post in Kaiserslautern, when I was here 2 years ago. He is so happy to be in Stuttgart. Tomorrow it's on to Anspach to see their rendering of Proof by David Auburn.

The Hills Are Alive...



It’s Friday evening already! I can’t believe it’s been such a long time since my last entry. Sometimes, internet connections are difficult, even on US Army bases. So, where was I?
Ah, yes. After seeing Red Ryder at SHAPE, Eva, one of the other adjudicators became ill. The next morning, we were supposed to leave for Nuremburg, but she could not go (a stomach thing.) We waited until noon, but then decided to go on without her. She stayed with Dan to recuperate. Poor Eva!

So, Annette and I set out on our own, with our trusty GPS (who Annette had named ). We ran into some bad weather along the way and didn’t get into town until late evening – just enough time to have dinner and call it a night. The hotel Annette had selected, The Albrecht Durer Haus, is right in the center and easily walkable to the major attractions, but it was dark already. We ate a lovely restaurant nearby, eating local specialties – mine was a veal stew with noodles.

The next morning I had hoped to have lots of time for sightseeing and work stuff, but we decided, since the weather was still iffy, to get an early start – 10 a.m. The hotel had an amazing breakfast (included) which had many types of smoked fish, cream cheese, eggs (very unusual) and fresh baked breads and cakes. At least we were sated for our long journey.

Of course the journey turned out to be even longer than we thought. Unbeknownst to us, whoever had used our GPS in the past, had set it on NO TOLL ROADS. So, she was taking us on all of these smaller, slower roads instead of the Autobahns and Autostrade. We went through the Alps, through snowstorms and rainstorms on these tiny local roads, past ski resorts, small towns and uninhabited places for hours and hours. Looking at the map, we realized something was wrong, but we figured she was guiding us this way because of bad traffic on the main roads. NOT! When we finally discovered the mistake, we got back on main roads and started to make better time. Until we got a speeding ticket in Austria and stuck behind some slow trucks in Italy.

Finally, we arrived at Aviano, the air base in Northern Italy, where we were to see our second show. We got there, late, just as the show was about to begin. It was opening night. We rushed from the car after an 8 hour drive, to sitting in the theatre watching David and Lisa, a charming play (remember the movie?) about two mentally challenged young people who meet and fall in love at a mental institution run by a compassionate psychiatrist, that was adapted from the film. Our host, Frank Lewandowski, was acting in the show, as was his wife Kathy and his daughter. The director, Pam, was gracious and sweet. She didn’t even blame us for the show starting late.

Annette and I found our rhythm as adjudicators that night. We were practically finishing each other’s sentences. I thought it went very well. Afterward, Pam and Frank took us out for an Italian dinner – to the same place he had taken me two years ago. I ordered a much-needed Prosecco (local to the area), salad and pizza. Delizioso!

The weather was much warmer with cloudless skies in Italy. It was probably around 52 in the early evening. The next morning it was clear as could be, sunny and equally warm. It made us both smile to see the sun – finally! We had a more leisurely morning before beginning our drive to Salzburg, Austria.

This time, driving through the Alps was a completely different experience. First, we were on the main roads and since the weather was clear, the mountains look majestic and beautiful with their stark white peaks contrasting the deep blue sky behind them. It was impossible not to ooh and ahh as we turned to see another extraordinary snow-capped rock formation. After leaving Italy, again the weather changed and we found ourselves in another snow storm. I think we drove through a tunnel – before entering we were under sunny skies, not a cloud to be seen anywhere – and coming out the other side, it was cloudy, dreary and dark. What a change! It wasn’t long before we hit all kinds of weather. We had to slow down and take it carefully.

We arrived in Salzburg, where it is cloudy and raining, just before 5 p.m. Since it was still light out, we decided to walk around the town and see whatever sights we could before it got dark. Our hotel, The Markus Sittkus, is again in the center of the town. It was a short walk to see the important buildings, mostly churches, that have stood proudly for centuries, in the heart of Mozart’s home town. We even stopped by the restaurant (still in existence) where he was supposed to have eaten often. Photos of celebrities – I recognized Bill Clinton – line the walls. (I didn’t see one of Mozart, though…) I took some photos which I’ll add to this site.

We settled in for dinner at a local restaurant recommended by the hotel: Stiftskeller, where I indulged in Beef Goulash, a local specialty. It was very good, but awfully filling. Meals in Germany and Austria have been too big and too heavy, but tasty. We never felt like having dessert. Now I have to read The Mousetrap (yes, the same one that has been playing in London since…when?...WWII?), which we will see tomorrow evening in Stuttgart (another 5 hour drive…)

We hear that Eva is feeling better and will meet us in Stuttgart tomorrow for the performance. We are looking forward to seeing her and sharing out adventures thus far.

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

When You Comin' Back?

We arrived at SHAPE, the NATO base just in time for the special performance of When You Comin' Back Red Ryder?, directed by Dan LaMorte. The theatre on the base has been completely renovated with a beautiful new lobby and comfortable new seats in the theater (since I was here two years ago.) They have a lobby exhibit of past productions using four of those electronic frames to show the photographs (NOTE TO SELF: Steal this idea for The Barrow Group!)
The play takes place in a 60's diner in New Mexico, not far from the Mexican border. An assortment of local characters have their lives and relationships tested when a smooth-talking grifter comes into the diner and proceeds to have fun by humiliating everyone. As it happens, he is perceptive and brings to light the real disappointments of the characters in their own lives and in their relationships. The set was a precise recreation of the kind of diner that now lives mostly in romantic memories (the last one of this type in Manhattan recently closed and was moved lock, stock and barrel to Nevada or somewhere.) As the story progresses, and the characters find themselves face-to-face with their own inadequacies, we wonder what we would do were we tested in the same way. Could we fight back? How heroic are we really?
A wonderful production of the play was presented early on at The Barrow Group, when we used to perform at The Corner Loft on 12th Street and University Place. I'll never forget that production and the emotional wallop it engendered. That was about 20 years ago!
Our brief adjudication occurred right after the performance. (It was short because they had to strike the set.) I had been nervous about it (and so was Eva, she confided in me.) But it went smoothly. It's a challenge to say encouraging things while also giving constructive criticism. It's the epitome of being "on the spot" because they are all sitting there looking at you for some words of wisdom. In a way, it's a bit easier than it was when I adjudicated the one-act festival a couple of years ago because in that case, we were not allowed to hear what the other adjudicators had to say and here, we are like a panel, building on each other's comments.
After the performance, Dan took us to dinner at the Officers' Club on base. This being a NATO base, there are soldiers from many European countries. A long table of Italian soldiers were holding court as we entered the restaurant. (Ciao ragazzi!) While the place will win no awards for culinary excellence, it was comfortingly American (nachos, salads, steak, burgers, etc.)
This morning, I was sad to find out that one of our group, Eva, had spent the night feeling ill and it seems that she will not be well enough to travel with us today. Annette and I will likely go to Nuremburg and Aviano and Strabourg without her and meet up with her again in Stuttgart on Saturday.

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

This is a photo of Dan LaMorte and me at his home in Mons, Belgium. (Okay, I cheated. This photo was actually taken the last time I was here a year or so ago. But we haven't changed that much! We arrived in Belgium a few minutes ago. Annette did all of the driving, as I guess she will continue to do for the remainder of our travels. Eva sat in front with her, but slept most of the time. Jim and I sat in back. Our chariot is a Ford station wagon, but a kind I have never seen in the States. It's very comfortable.
Dan arranged for us to stay at a hotel near SHAPE which is a NATO base, where he works. The hotel, a Best Western, is very nice. We see our first production in a little over an hour. I'm nervous about doing a critique right afterwards. Will I get a word in edgewise? Annette has adjudicated hundreds of play festivals. She is definitely, "the boss," but very nice. Will I have anything intelligent to say? I'll let you know how it goes.

Monday, February 23, 2009

I'm Here

I arrived in Frankfurt this morning. A couple of fortuitous things occurred. Since I was very early at the airport, I was able to talk my way into the President's Club Lounge at Continental. That was great because it was free internet, free drinks and snacks. I was able to get some work done there. Then, I was sitting on the plane with an empty seat next to me (the plane was barely half-full.)
Now I'm in my friend (boss) Jim's apartment, where I'll stay in Heidelberg. This is my base of operations. I got my photo ID card on the way here, which will get me onto all of the US Army and Navy bases throughout Europe.
Tonight I'll meet my fellow adjudicators at dinner.
It's cold, cloudy and rainy here, but the City is beautiful with a certain Bavarian charm - lots of white buildings with the signature wooden cross-hatching. There's still snow covering the hillside. With the rain, a lot of it has melted in the City.
I'm tired, but trying hard not to sleep, so I can adjust to the time change: 6 hours ahead of New York. Tomorrow we drive to Mons, Belgium (not too far from Brussels). My friend Dan LaMorte -- the guy who got me this gig in the first place -- runs the Entertainment Division at the base there. He has directed the play When You Comin' Back Red Ryder? which will be the first show see tomorrow evening.

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Send off

This evening several friends came by the apartment to wish me a Bon Voyage and celebrate some birthdays and anniversaries, as well. I told everyone I would create a blog of my adventures as an adjudicator for the US Army Tournament of Plays. So here it is: my virgin effort at blogging. Thanks to everyone who was here for your good wishes! Not much more to say...I still have to pack! I'll be back to you soon.